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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.